Apulia
Tucked away in the ‘heel’ of Italy’s boot-shaped peninsula, Apulia is a region bursting with charm. Life moves at a slower pace down here. It’s hard to sum up the many different territories and life styles that make it all up. Much of the region remains a little-known historical, natural and culinary gem. When you venture into some of its hundreds of small towns, you will encounter a traditional way of life filled with earthy flavors, sharp colors and welcoming smiles. Puglia’s most distinctive architectural style is the trullo. These circular dry-stone huts are unique to Puglia and date back to the 14th century. Originally built as temporary shelters, they were constructed so they could be easily dismantled and rebuilt to avoid any property taxes. For foodies, one of the most exciting reasons to visit Puglia is its mouthwatering cuisine. It’s one of the largest producers of durum wheat in Italy, so expect to be dining on delicious bread and pasta while you’re here. Orecchiette (‘little ears’) is the most iconic Pugliese pasta. The best way to wash down all that delightful food is with a glass of local wine. Puglia is one of the largest wine-producing regions in Italy, with varieties such as Primitivo, Negroamaro and Bianco Locorotondo. Puglia produces about 50% of Italy’s olive oil, and the town of Andria is number one when it comes to the extra virgin kind.
Basilicata
The Basilicata region is in the southernmost part of Italy, right on the instep of the boot. Much of Basilicata is an otherworldly landscape of mountain ranges, trackless forests and villages that seem to sprout organically from the granite. Forget the luxuriant hills of other parts of Italy, the beauty of Basilicata is all but ostentatious. Its charm lies in tis authenticity. Longstanding isolation and remoteness made it one the poorest areas of Italy. Imagine a region that has miles of white sand beaches on one coast, picturesque rocky bays on the other, two mountainous national parks, and one of the world’s oldest cities. Add lots of warm sunshine plus fine food and wine.
The entire region has always shared a strong common bond: a deeply ingrained pride in the local regional cuisine, known as Lucanian. Although the name changed from Lucania to Basilicata in the mid-sixth century, the people here have always referred to themselves and their agriculture as Lucanian. Pig farming – mostly wild boar – plays a crucial role. The boar are often left to roam alongside sheep in open pastures. Hillsides shimmer with the silvery leaves of centuries-old olive groves. Gnarled grapevines produce the same primitivo and aglianico grapes that farmers have been growing here since the Greeks arrived thousands of years prior.
Matera is a UNESCO world heritage site and was a European
city of culture in 2019. It is believed to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, with dwellings built on the Sassi (stone) hills on either side of its ancient river canyon from Neolithic times onward. Matera went from being a national shame in the 1950’s due to its poverty to European Capital of Culture in 2019. It’s a magical place, hanging on the cliff a of a ravine.
Explore Matera from the other side of the canyon. Enjoy a bizarre landscape
and breathtaking views. Visit the rock churches. Famous for its sassi and stunning landscapes, Matera, is not only breathtaking, but fascinating: Its history goes back more than 30,000 years. People used to live here in cave-like homes. these dwellings, carved into the rock, look like homes piled one on top of the other. (Their interiors, though, often feel cave-like). It’s an ingenious, and space-saving, design: Step onto one of the narrow lanes between houses, and you’re actually standing on the roof of the house below.
In the middle of Basilicata, as giants emerged from the sea, rise the imposing Lucanian
Dolomites, with spectacular spiers and shapes that suggested names as the golden eagle, the anvil, the great mother, the little owl. Close to the peaks of the Lucanian Dolomites, there are the small towns of Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa placed at the altitude of 1.000 meters. From these towns it is possible to admire the incredible landscape of the Dolomites as well as along many paths that lead to the most beautiful places. Pietrapertosa is a small and beautiful medieval village situated on the mountain range of the Lucanian Dolomites and is counted among the most beautiful villages in Italy. Here time has stopped at least a century ago
With the aim of protecting this area, the region Basilicata established the
Regional Special Natural Reserve of Montalbano Jonico “badlands”. In addition to the peculiar geological and paleontological features, the area of Montalbano “badlands” also contain elements of unique landscape, environmental, archeological and cultural value. The deep engravings of the badlands, which develop as far as the cultivated fields which flank the valley of the Agri river, are surrounded by little woods of Mediterranean scrub, with pines and cypresses, and draw uncontaminated landscapes, among which the spectacular site of “Tempa Petrolla” stands out. Although the environment of the badlands is characterized by steep clayish sides and climatic conditions with extended dry seasons, it has however a rich and complex flora and fauna.
In the southernmost area of Basilicata, about 50 km south of Matera, in a hilly territory embraced between the Lucanian Apennines and the Ionian Sea. Immersed in this landscape as wild as fascinating, Craco stands on the top of a cliff from which it overlooks the surrounding panorama from its almost 400 meters above sea level, an atmosphere of silent and almost unintelligible beauty.
The Alta Murgia is a breathtaking hilly
hilly area located in the middle of the Land of Bari indeed. It is a limestone block that emerged 70 million years ago and its hills even get about 600 meters altitude.
The position and the peculiarities of the National Park give to travelers the chance to admire incredible landscapes at sunrise or sunset. Indeed, walking or cycling through the land is an awesome and authentic experience. You’ll probably meet a Masseria: an old farm where, in the old days, farmers lived and worked. Or maybe you’ll find out kind of stone fences where the sheeps grazed, in Puglia known as Jazzi and Poste.
Altamura is a small town in the province of Bari that despite its small size is known throughout the country thanks to its bread Altamura PDO, the IGP lentil, and for the discovery of Homo neanderthalensis occurred in these areas. The history of Altamura is very ancient, so much so that it dates back to the Neolithic age, a period in which populations of Neanderthal men settled in the area. The city is inextricably linked to the name of Emperor Frederick II who, once arrived in the area of Altamura and found a ruined city decided to repopulate the city by asking the peasants of neighbouring countries to move to this area, giving them in exchange for privileges. The city was born, therefore, exactly like that.
Perched atop a conical-shaped hill, Ostuni emerged from the horizon
just right after exiting the autostrada. By nature, hill towns are conceived as defensive settlements and speak to the past’s turbulent times. More than other hill towns we visited, Ostuni’s defensive walls are in great repair and gleaming under the Puglia’s sun. Known as La Città Bianca in Italian, the whole town is painted in white. The whitewashed walls of Ostuni glows in the distance as the sun drenches the outer walls. It’s hard not to be captivated by this gem set in the Apulian countryside surrounded by olive groves and vines.
Speak to others of your plans to visit Puglia, and one of the first things
they’re likely to mention are the trulli. These curious conical-roofed whitewashed structures, clustered in pockets of Puglia like wild fungi, are an icon of the region. In fact, this peaceful part of southern Italy is the only place they have ever existed. It is to view Puglia’s finest and largest concentration of trulli which brings people to Alberobello, a town of just over 10,000 people. But, how did these unique buildings come to be in Puglia? Well, as with many pivotal moments in history, it’s all to do with tax and money.
In the 1500’s, the Acquaviva family, the local rulers within the feudal system, wanted to avoid paying property taxes to the King. They ordered local peasants to build their houses and dwellings without mortar so that, in the event of a royal inspection, the structures could quickly and easily be taken down, and the tax bill would remain low. Using local limestone and some ingenious building techniques, the local population created the trulli, many of which remain standing today (a double achievement given their purpose was to be easy to dismantle!). Undoubtedly, the sole reason most people come to Alberobello is to wander the trulli-lined streets; there is after all no other place like this in the world.
Otranto is a small medieval, walled town, with a harbour, beaches, and just the
ticket for a laid back few days. Within the town walls is the castle with its impressive, formidable ramparts and a delightful cathedral. The old town is a delightful higgledy piggledy collection of little streets and alleyways. No road goes in a straight line, no corner turns quite 90 degrees. The layout is organic, reflecting centuries of making do and adding on. This little town in Puglia is the first place that greets the sun every day, being Italy’s most easterly city.
Lecce is the capital of the region. Renowned for its Baroque architecture, it is known as the Florence of the south. Lecce has an unmistakable style, with monuments dating back to Roman times and, most notably, its extraordinary 17th-century buildings that proudly bare the characteristic blonde colour of the local stone. The atmosphere is vibrant and bustling. The historic centre of Lecce is a true open-air museum, starting with the spectacular Piazza Duomo. Distinguished by its columns, arches and numerous rose windows, as well as its typical small squares and unexpected alleyways, it is dotted with marvellous aristocratic palaces and stands out among the most beautiful cities of art in our peninsula.
Known as the “Florence of the South”, Lecce amazes, fascinates and conquers with the archaeological remains of Roman rule and the exuberance of 17th-century baroque, known here as “Lecce Baroque”, a unique expression of a popular language with Mediterranean roots.
If you dream of friendly Italian locals striking up a conversation with you in the streets, delicious (and cheap) local food, balmy weather, an afternoon pisolino (nap), and incredibly beautiful surroundings, Lecce will tick all the boxes. It’s a university city and a ‘real’ Southern Italian town where locals live, work, study and go about their day.
A bustling coastal town set with a
charming historic center, Monopoli in Puglia is one to remember. It’s a rather “larger” town in Puglia, with a proper grid that leads up to the “centro storico” or historic center. The lungomare wraps itself around the old town, where inside awaits a chance to see daily life in Puglia. Home to a working fishing harbor, you feel submersed in what the locals are doing. Unlike its neighbors, Monopoli has a well-developed grid section just south of its old town. While it lacks the Italian charm that visitors would expect from Italy. But what it lacks in charm is more than made up by its urban vitalities.
The town Polignano itself stands on a rugged cliff overlooking the azure waters of the Adriatic Sea, with whitewashed buildings perched precariously on the rocky surface above, and the sound of waves crashing against the rocks below. It’s like a scene straight out of a postcard. Polignano a Mare boasts some of the most breathtaking coastal scenery in all of Italy, with dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and crystal-clear waters that beckon travellers to explore their depths. For anyone who has never seen a picture of Polignano a Mare, the town is designed to impress. A series of belvederes were strategically placed for the best views of cliff-side architecture. One thing that delights visitors nowadays at Polignano a Mare is verses of poetry that are written on walls and steps.
The wetlands nearby Margherita di Savoia do have a long history: located along the ancient
Via Salaria, which goes from Rome to Santa Maria di Leuca, they are the largest in Italy and the biggest in the entire Mediterranean Basin. This salt pan used to be a vast coastal lagoon where the Romans and the Greeks had settled a large part of their population, also using it as a merchant’s vessel boarding facility. Only submerged ruins and a stone pier can be still recognized in this area. A magical environment which preserves an ancient gold, salt. The Margherita di Savoia salt pans are one of those almost otherworldly natural landscapes. Here a perfect embrace is created between the most pristine flora and the wildest fauna. In fact, this immense wetland is a succession of different ecological niches, which, depending on the environmental conditions, allow infinite plant and especially animal species to proliferate. It is home to a large population of pink flamingos.
Trani: Known as the ‘Pearl of Puglia’, beautiful Trani has a sophisticated feel. A lack of beaches means Trani is generally bypassed by many foreign tourists, yet this elegant little town was once an important trading port, second in the Adriatic only to Venice. Knights Templars set off from Trani on their way to the Crusades, and it was in Trani that the oldest known maritime trading law in the west – the Ordinamenta Maris – was established in the 11th century. A flourishing trade attracted wealthy families from Amalfi, Genoa, and Venice. Its good fortune was partially linked to the presence of a sizeable Jewish community, the largest in southern Italy, which was awarded a monopoly on the manufacture and sale of raw silk. The picturesque harbour with its restaurants and bars is the main draw, and that’s more than enough when the objective is to chill out in exceedingly pleasant surroundings that provoke a feeling of wellbeing.
With a population of around 55,000, it blends ancient
charm with modern vibrancy. Bisceglie is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture, including the impressive Cathedral of San Pietro. Additionally, it’s celebrated for its olive oil production. Bisceglie is traditionally the most important fishing port in this area, particularly sardines, mackerel, anchovies and cod. At the heart of the town is a thriving fish and fruit/vegetable market. This unusually operates every day of the week (Sundays included), mornings only, and is well worth a visit.
Castel del Monte is the most striking of the castles of southern Italy: an enigmatic octagon
standing isolated on a remote hilltop. Castel del Monte is one of the many castles built in southern Italy in the thirteenth century by Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor. It’s seen as the greatest of his castles, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Frederick built a string of castles across Puglia, and most of the mighty sea-shore fortresses you’ll come across date to his thirteenth-century reign. Castel del Monte, built around 1240, is the grandest and the strangest. It has no obvious military function, standing alone on a hill with no settlement or port to protect. Instead of standard defensive features the castle has windows and a few impracticably deep arrow slits. Its design is odd, and that coupled with Frederick’s known love of learning has led to all sorts of speculation about meanings and symbolism. The castle is octagonal, with eight octagonal corner towers and eight rooms on each floor, around a central courtyard.
